5/16/08
We're home! very exhausted...so more later this weekend! PS ....our 2.5 hours in Paris yesterday was wonderful... I had a pain chocolat in my hands before I even left the RER station.
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5/14/08
Dobar Dan! Yesterday, was a pretty full day ....we left the hotel around 8:30am and headed to St. Stephens to view the treasury...or at least the hours posted in a small room made us think it was the treasury...but then again we dont really read Croatian...so it turns out the next morning when we stood in line with locals we were actually in line for confession!!!!! Never did locate the treasury..so we headed up to the other old town Gradac...walking through the famous Stone Gate..and this is where I kind of lost it...we have really been treated very well by everyone in Croatia and while in the church in St. Stephens there was a (country omitted) Tour Group that was taking flash pictures in the church right after mass when a multitude of locals were praying. and then at the Stone Gate of the famous Virgin Mary they were jostling/pushing locals out of the way WHILE THEY WERE PRAYING to get a picture...I had enough..and marched over to the tour leader and said if I behaved in that manner in a Buddhist temple it would be considered extremely rude and disrespectful. Tell your group to knock it off and behave themselves and show respect to the people of Croatia...Now, I probably do need to go back to that confession line for chastizing people in front of a Shrine!!!! but when a local walked by me afterwards and said Hvala (thank you) I felt like it was right thing to do. Anway moving on...we really like the Gradac area...St. Marks church is under renovation so you cant enter it, but what you are really there to view is the famous tile roof with the Coat of Arms and it doesnt disappoint! Parliment and the Viceroys Palace are on either side of the square..but totally understated. We also visited St. Catherines Church...a girly girl church! Pink and white roccoco cielings and dainty stained glass patterns! Then we headed to the City Museum, which is EXCELLENT ..allow a good hour here, its very extensive and quite fascinating. Rick Steves book eludes to just the Tito area, but do take the time to explore up to that time. It is very informative, the history is well preserved from all aspects of life from when the Zagreb area was first founded. John and I both think this is one of the BEST city museums we have been to!!! Next up, John climbed the Tower of Lotrscak which is where the funicular is located. I stayed below and soaked in the view from the panoramic lookout area. Andiamo...to the Croatian History Museum which has rotating exhibits. Currently is an exhibit on el shatt..this is a part of WW2 history that most, even in Croatia, do not know about. As the people of Croatia became more in danger of invasion from Germany they became refugees and with the Allied Forces help were sent to camps in the desert near Alexandria, Egypt. Over 20,000 people for 2 years created a life in the barren desert...their resilence and inner strength was so inspiring. What they did to not only survive, but thrive is just amazing. Take the time to google more about this than just the link above. I think you will find it thought provoking. We then headed back down to the newer town area where Jelacic Square is located to pick up lunch...our favorite cheap eats sandwhich place is called Sandwhich Bar Pingvin, its in the Rick Steves book. The sandwhiches start at 18 kuna, we have been getting the grilled chicken breast fillet for 23 Kuna which fills me up for lunch AND dinner. This is a lunch crowd hang out and very very popular. Very few quick takeaway places in Zagreb..so put this on your list for food options! Heading out now for the Botanical Gardens, Archeological Museum, Arts and Crafts Museum and few souvenir stops before we leave in the morning! Ciao Ciao for now!
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5/12/08
Dobar Dan from Zagreb! We arrived late last night on Croatian Airlines..took the shuttle bus from the airport, which leaves just minutes after arriving..no time for the toilette..follow the herd quickly....it was 30 kuna per person and dropped us off at the bus station..from there we took a taxi to the hotel arriving about 9:45pm. John called it a night, but that Coca Cola Zero (thats Croatias version of Diet Coke) on the flight gave me way too much pep! So, I grabbed the little flashlight we always carry and read up on everything Zagreb! I must say, Rick Steves did not mention a real gem of a happy little church called St. Francis that you must visit! Today, we headed out after breakfast which was included in our rate...and what a spread they had here...I was so excited about all the options..that forgot that I had been eating pretty bland with Ham and Cheese sandwhiches all week...well my tummy struck about a 1/2 hour after we left the hotel...I lasted for about 3 hours...btw, I can provide you with about 7 locations of bathrooms in Zagreb if needed. We managed to roam through the park areas viewing great Art Nouveau buildings, St. Stephens, St. Marys, St. Francis (love this church), Jelacic Square, the Outdoor Market..where I picked up a banana...we saw honey in jars that had the actual honeycomb in it..saw homemade cheese and as we were staring at it, the vendor insisted we try some so we could experience homemade croatian cheese...delicious...That reminds me a breakfast I had fresh cottage cheese...WOW! Knudsens needs some lessons here!! hahahahhaaha! Made it through the Kaptol part of town, headed back down embassy row for more Art Nouveau buildings..and then I hit the wall...climbed in bed ..with chills...but took my temp which was normal...popped 2 imodium and then slept for 4 hours...feel like a brand new person!!! John went out and roamed more checking out the Gradac area ..which we will return to tommorow and add a few museums that were closed today...its strange being in a busy city after being in DBV, Split, Korcula and of course..Hvar!!!! We have so much more to share about Split, along with directions for those of you that are staying there as the easiest and fewest steps possible to access your hotel or sobe...I guess we will have to put all that in the trip report! Yesterday afternoon we just relaxed on steps in Peristyle taking it all in for one last time, listened to the acapella singers in the vestibule and found ourselves giving directions to several other tourists...we always say...when you start giving directions to hotels, sights, restaurants etc...its time to continue on with your journey! Ciao Ciao for now!
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5/11/08
Hi - John here. We were heading out to catch the ferry from Hvar to Split yesterday morning and came across one of those kodak moments. It was a scene that seemed to capture traditional Europe. Walking along the harbor we saw a local fisherman in traditional clothing who appeared to be in his 70s checking his fishing lines. Then he stopped at one of them, pulled it up, and lo and behold there was a squirming octopus attached to it!! He stood there holding the line with his catch hanging in the air, and with the beautiful harbor and historic town in the background it made quite a scene and I couldn't resist taking some photos. The fisherman then walked along the harbor continuing to check his lines, as other locals periodically stopped to congratulate him on his catch. Just one more memory that added to our authentic experience in Hvar. The ferry ride to Split went by quickly, and we soon found ourselves walking from the pier to our hotel. Our hotel (Hotel Peristil) is located in the heart of the old town, within the walls of what was Diocletian's Palace. In fact, the hotel is right against one of the original exterior walls of the palace! Karen had researched the hotel rooms and found out that there were two rooms that had part of the original wall incorporated within it. Knowing our love of history, she knew that we would have to stay in one of them, and reserved the best room in the place! (at a special on-line discount) This room has a little reading alcove with the stone walls of Diocletian's Palace framing it, and one of the palace's original windows was used (though reduced in size) - it was so historic and cozy! Here we were, staying within walls 1700 years old. This room rocked :) After checking in, the first thing we did was have breakfast outside in the hotel restaurant, which was framed by ruins of the palace. It made for very scenic dining! We had passed through the Brass Gate and palace cellars on our way to the hotel, and emerging from the cellars we came upon the Peristyle! This courtyard was once the heart of Diocletian's Palace and was dripping with history! What is fascinating about Split is how it was founded within the ruins of the abandoned palace in the 7th century as the walls provided great protection to the early inhabitants. Throughout it's history Split has incorporated various parts of the palace into the town, so you can see the architectural mix of Roman, Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance- with ruined walls reused, and everywhere you turn you can see centuries of modifications! After breakfast we headed to the Cathedral of St. Dominus. It is one of the oldest churches in Christendom, as the building was originally Diocletian's tomb, and was converted to a Cathedral around the fall of the Roman Empire. Ironically, two of the saints that Diocletian had ordered put to death are now venerated in the Cathedral, and Diocletian's remains are long gone. The Cathedral interior is a fascinating mix of western and eastern - it kind of reminded me a bit of parts of St. Mark's in Venice. The Cathedral treasury contained a wide variety or relics, ancient books (including one of the oldest books in the world from 580AD), gold chalices, etc. Afterwards I climbed the belltower while Karen went to the TI. There was a spectacular view of the entire old town from the top!! We've got to be going soon - more later, but here's Karen for a bit! Hi! we are using a computer that is usually just for those who live in the neighborhood...a store that sells beer, sodas, newspapers, ice cream bars etc...the girl at the counter had the tv on, so while Johns been blogging I thought I would see what she was watching..understanding nothing that was being said I thought this show looks like Americans Next Top Model...sure enough when it went to commercial break it said Croatians Next Top Model..so the salesclerk and I have been having a ball watching it deciding who will win...shes been translating for me! We are off to Zagreb on a 745pm flight, for a couple of days, so we can blog more from there...so much more to share with all of you, the personal interactions have been memories to treasure. Today, one of the Hotel Peristil owners said to me...do you know what country was the 1st to recognize the United States when it was 1st created and I said ...The Republic of Ragusa (Dubrovnik)! He then said Hvala, thank you for knowing our history...being a traveler not a tourist is the best way to learn about the world...So, I leave you with his wise words ...a half a world away!
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5/9/08
I love Hvar. I dont want to leave. The End We arrived at 7:35am on the Krilo Express...but lets back up a bit..we checked out of Hotel Korcula and since we wouldnt be there for breakfast they provided us a sandwhiches, fruit juice and fruit for our journey, the wonderful man at the front desk took my luggage across the street to the Catamaran and hollered something in Croatian and they loaded my luggage on and then ushered us past the line onboard...we must of known people who knew people...and then they took my luggage off in Hvar!!! Upon arrival the hotel room wasnt quite ready, the hotel partially opened for the season YESTERDAY! They let us have breakfast and then provided us with a Harbor View room!!! Stunning Views, just stunning! We began wandering and soon realized there were only about 10 other tourists in town! Since today marks "opening day" of shoulder season everyone seems to be scurrying around sprucing...We strolled the backstreets, to the church...the museum was closed but followed Rick Steves advice and rang the doorbell..sure enough they answered unlocked the museum just for us! then on to the Lace Museum inside the Benedictine Convent..unfortunately no one answered the doorbell, but a nun walked by and we asked if the museum was opened, she didnt quite understand us, then a local walked by, translated for us..turns out the museum is totally closed BUT they decided to let us into the foyer to show us lace displays....we saw these beautiful intricate patterns of about 10 samples, just amazing! Then onto the Franciscan Monastery....sadly they didnt open until tomorrow...and tomorrow we are onto Split...The grounds were nice and fabulous photo opportunities. As we strolled around we came across a gentleman in his 80s selling lavender...we gather from our somewhat conversation that he or his family worked in the fields in Fresno and wineries Napa working the harvest and we think he is leaving for the USA next month.. After dabbing lavender oil on us, we purchased a small bottle of lavender oil and then we said our goodbyes and decided it was now time for a nap...We headed back to our hotel..placed our room chairs in front of the window and enjoyed our sandwhiches from Hotel Korcula, enjoying our million dollar harbor view! Then we took a 2 hour nap! Upon waking, we decided to head up, up and up to the famous fort...it was quite a hike up stairs through town, but as you leave old town its a slow grade up, which makes the climb much easier. The views are worth it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We headed back down, and decided that tonight was going to be our dinner treat night...each trip we have 1 or 2 of these...where we find a restaurant with wonderful ambiance and what appears to be a scrumptious menu...its always been a jackpot experience and tonight was no different....we sat outside on the promenade, we were the only ones in the restaurant, the views were wonderful in each direction and the food....the food was delicious, I had a Spaghetti Carbonara..(hey, I hiked to the fort) and John had a chicken breast! The bread came with a variety of olive oils and vinegar combos for dipping...a perfect way to end our day in Hvar!!!! I really dont want to leave...its so peaceful here, the lavender, the water, the charming town... If you are traveling to Hvar and need to build in a little down time into your schedule this is the place to do it! Ciao Ciao for now!
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5/8/08
Exhaling in Korcula...seriously...they are on island time here ...with honest to goodness siestas...so when in Rome..so to speak...! Korcula can be seen in a spin tour, and what a wonderful tour it is...the Churches are spectacular and whatever you do dont cheap out on the icon museum because across the little bridge walkway is the entrance to the another gem of a church..and the only way to see it is through the museum! The Bishops House holding the church museum was excellent..and St. Marks has a Tintoretto over the altar! VERY windy here so even if you are traveling in the summer be prepared! The car ferry was quite relaxing, and I was able to make it 1/2 way through my Sue Grafton book S is for Silence. We docked at the East ferry dock...Hotel Korcula where we are staying is located on the opposite side of the island..a whopping 5 minute walk. The Krilo Express to Hvar at 6am tomorrow leaves in front of our hotel. So, people have wondered about the Hotel Korcula...pull up the website ..see the name over the archway entrance ..we are in the room smack dab right above the entrance, a beautiful sea view from our balcony..which we dined on tonight...our usual ham and cheese sanwhiches from the local market...I bought a tomato for 38 cents and this Croatia mustard that I am addicted too...seriously in Zagreb Im buying a HUGE container of this stuff..I will have to get the name for you!! anyway, we were joking that we could have eaten downstairs for about 50 euros and not had as good of view as we did for 7 euros!!!! Can you tell where we save our pennies is in food? Well, not all the time...I will have to tell you my oops story in Firenze when I ordered the Florentine Steak! Back to Korcula, we saw Marco Polos house..or at least thats the legend...Someone sent me an email saying that they thought he was Venetian..well technically that is true too, because Korcula was under the Venetian Republic at one time. Back to Dubrovnik for a second, interestingly we were talking to a gentleman who worked at the TI, just chatting about exchange rate and he said a lot of his friends are investing in USD these days! Also, in 2 stores I heard sales clerks say to cruise passengers that they did not except USD, but they would accept Euros. There are at least 3 ATMs on the Stadun (main drag)..so you can easily access Kunas, if you dont buy any in advance..back to Korcula..our hotel is fine...not a dump as some have written, I would say its stuck in a time warp from the 60s...mustards, burnt orange, and brown..a little cranky receptionist...but the location is fabulous..and being in low season for 1 night only its a great bargain. Well, time is about up..and we have an early wake up call...410am...and then we are off to Hvar!!! The other land of lavender!!! Ciao Ciao for now!
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5/7/08
Part 2 scroll down for part 1 from earlier today We are back at the hotel, I think I will go for swim in a little bit...Johns napping... now back to Kotor....food was so inexpensive there - only 1 euro, yes thats right 1, for a HUGE sandwhich. I had this filo dough stuffed with cheese that was only 2 euro. Croatia has been pricing out as going out for dinner as it would at home. Scampi with Linguine is 20 USD, a small Pizza or pasta is about 45-50 kunas, we just split a 16oz smoothie for 25 kunas! You can check out oanda.com for currency exchange rates. Kozum is the local grocery store and we have become locals....excellent bottle water prices 4 kunas, we have been doing picnics the last couple of nights buying supplies at the store and eating in our hotel room...oh, cornflakes are 11 kunas and Special K is 27 kunas. Sobes, if anyone is staying in one you really need to check the location because you could have a TREMENDOUS about of steps up..those familiar with San Francisco hills...consider those mole hills in comparison to these...so send me an email about your sobe location and we can chat!!! The generosity and thoughtfulness of the Croatian people has been wonderful. We had purchased a museum pass for 50 kuna that covered the Rectors Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum, and Marin Drzica (no time limit to use it) but forgot it at our hotel today..after we explained this at the entrance..they said no problem and let us enter! We had an excellent driver to Montenegro and Mostar...see the private driver option under our next adenture...and he is taking us to the port in the morning complimentary! We absolutely recommend the company we hired and hope that you will consider them. If you want further info, of course email us! Time is almost up on my internet card.. Mostar will have to wait... I am still gathering my thoughts on the experiences and emotions of that day. Ciao Ciao for now!
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5/7/08
Dobar Dan from Dubrovnik! Today is our last day here and then we head to Korcula in the morning on the 9am ferry! Yesterday was Kotor...a new passport stamp! The drive around the Bay of Kotor is breathtakingly beautiful! Just like the scenes of Casino Royale...we stopped in the town of Perast..which has a fascinating history a great church on the mainland with an incredible treasury of relics and collection of the most intricately embroidered vestments that I have ever seen. We took a boat out to one of the islands in the bay to view the Our Lady of the Rocks..the story is a vision of the Virgin Mary was seen by fisherman many many centuries ago, so each time they passed by this spot they dropped a rock...after 500 years an island was formed and an exquisite little church was built on the rocks! We then continued to Kotor. We loved Kotor, its very compact and very easy to see everything within a couple of hours ...saying that it ooozzzeeessss charm is an understatement! Too bad it was raining all day, because we would have loved to sit at a cafe and just people watch. If you exit out of the North gate and look back at the old walls, it is incredibly picturesque a total Kodak moment..and the bonus feature is ....a working MOAT!!!! Theres a church half way up the mountain called Our Lady of Health, where you will be granted good health... to access the church its a steep mountain grade of about 500 steps (did I mention straight up) I said to John only those that ALREADY HAVE good health can make it there! We then proceeded to drive up to Cetinje for the scenic overlook of the Bay of Kotor, also known as BOKA Bay...but since it had been raining all day, the fjord was fogged in.....sad, sad, sad! So, today is a rest and recover day from the pace we have had since we arrived..we visited the Ethnographic Museum, Ploce Gate, Revelin Fort, and the house of Marin Drzica, we wandered over to the Green Market grabbed some fruit as Wednesday and Sundays are outdoor market days ...tasted some grappa with herbs which they claim is medicinal...drink enough of that and anything will be cured..also tasted the yummy dried sugared oranges, lemons and figs. We have found a local cheap eats YUMMY sandwhich shop thats become a frequent stop. Have pictures and address that I will give in our full trip report for those that are actually traveling here to Dubrovnik...Must go now ...will blog later tonight!
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5/4/08
Today we arrived into Old Town at 730am and took so many fabulous pictures before the crowds arrived. If you are planning on doing a land based trip to Dubrovnik I would recommend mid April, not much later than mid May and then wait until September to avoid the crowds from land travelers and cruise ships...the heat will be scorching so I would also suggest getting one of those cobblers I mentioned in another blog! Shorts are perfectly acceptable in the churches here, tank tops are not! We toured the rest of the old wall and forts today, the Rectors Palace, St. Lawrence fort..this is not usually done by most and it should be done as the views are spectacular, bought a few Christmas ornaments and found a great hole in the wall sandwich shop on a side street near St. Blaise, lunch for both of us which is strictly take away was only 6 USD! We dined on the steps, that were inspired by the Spanish Steps in Rome..located around the corner from the Rectors Palace....will have to blog another time..Im out of internet time...off to Mostar in the morning!
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5/3/08
Im working on a Croatian keyboard, so please excuse all mistakes! We arrived late yesterday it was 2 days of travel with a forced overnight in Paris (which we will also have on the return), after checking into the hotel headed out to our bus stop which is just a few steps from where we are staying in the Lapad area and took a 15 min ride down to old town. Air France upgraded us to the upper deck ...a small world story, the ticket agent we had was the same agent who upgraded us on our honeymoon flight! LOVE that upper deck ..very spacious! then our flight from Zagreb to Dubrovnik was 1st class! Croatian Airlines was wonderful..the Zagreb airport was quite small and from the waiting area we were steps away from the tarmac! so there was NO behind the scenes, it all passed by us as we waited to board! Great pictures to share! Last night we had delicious pizza with a Croatian cheese called Bjelovarac and washed it down with the local pivo (beer) called Ozujsko! The weather is fantastic and already shorts weather! We walked the walls today, St. Blaise, The Cathedral and Museum, Serbian Orthodox Church and icon museum, and the Maritime Museum just to name a few things on our Sights to See list. Did you know that Croatia rivaled Venice in size and strength of their navy and merchants..and they were like Switzerland, so their wealth just kept growing while everyone else fought battles. Also, saw the area that was on the Amazing Race when they did the zip line! Right now we are taking a break before we head up, up and up! We are having a wonderful time, our hotel room has a beautiful view of Lapad Bay with a private balcony and we were sent a complimentary bottle of wine for our anniversary!!!! Tomorrow is another day in Dubrovnik, Monday is Mostar and Tuesday we are off to Montenegro! We will continue to blog as we have time or if we need a sit down break during the day that is air conditioned with cold refreshing beverages available... Periodically, we will check email so if you have question about the region, just send us an email. Au Revoir!